The Marko blank cut by Elite Cutting here on the Gold Coast.
Designed in AKU with the rails on it and thinned out.
The EPS Marko blank and the Paulownia skins I have made up for me at 5mm thick for the deck skin and 4mm for the bottom skin, 600mm wide. This makes finishing the board so easy and saves having to have expensive bulky machinery that you only use once in a while. My rail band stock is supplied like this as well.
I scribe the rails, nose and tail build outs, ready to cut off. By getting the blank cut with the rails on you can then guage how much you can bend the deck skin down and around to meet the rail band. Then decide how much rail you need to add. With different boards and designs you could save weight and build time by minimizing the number of rail bands.
All marked out
The Japanese pull saw is such a handy tool for doing lots of things with building wooden boards.
Now we have a basic EPS core. Get the sand paper block or surform out and square up the rail.
The first rail band goes on. I use Polyurethane foaming glue and masking tape.
I use a 3mm scrap of Paulownia to scribe the rail band and to make it as close as possible to the shape and curve of the board. This is to save material and to keep the amount of pressure needed to bend the Paulownia around the rail shape. That way you can use masking tape and not all sorts of clamps and straps.I see people with wide strips and then struggle to get them to fit to rail.
I used a Polyurethane glue with a 30 minute cure time to do these small bits to knock it over more quickly. The other glue I use has a 2 hour cure time.
Surrounded in Paulownia
I use a small block plane to take the rail bands down and foil them to the flow of the deck and bottom contours so that the skins flow around and onto them naturally.
Ok now it is time to set up the rocker table. A level and true table with no twists is all I use.
A centre line to line the stringer up with and just fix a block under the nose and tail to make sure it won't twist. It is all you need, as it can't go anywhere.
Scribe the board outline plus say 10mms to allow some wriggle room and the extra width to curve over the deck. But not too much as the over hang can get pulled down with the pressure on it in the vacuum bag and crack along the rail
The band saw is my biggest tool, you could use a jigsaw, but this makes it way easier. Once setup it is very useful and will last a lifetime. An old one like this won't cost much second hand and cutting the small thickness timber I use is neat and tidy with the right blade.
Getting ready to glue the skins and vacuum bag it all together. I use a .7mm PVC bag welded up for me by a guy who makes boat and caravan covers. It is the same material they use for clear windows in covers. Also Polyurethane glue will not stick to it. When new because it is so smooth the two surfaces will stick together so dust some baby/ talcon powder inside the bag to make getting the board in by yourself easier. See the ramp like board at the far end of the table , I use that to hold the weight of the bag up out of the way of the tail area on some boards so as to not pull or weigh down the board and twist the tail corners. The extra length of bag when used on a smaller board can weigh quite a lot and pull down as it hangs off the table.
Identify and mark the top and bottom of each sheet with a centre line to line everything up before you get the glue out. A bit of simple planning can save a lot of disappointment.
This is the glue I use and have found to do a great job.
I spread it thinly over the EPS and make sure you get it on the edges of the rail band. I normally dampen the edges of the rail band to aid adhesion as these glues are activated by moisture.
I spray a light mist of water onto the skins prior to taping them onto the EPS core. The timber can be very dry and as I said the glue is moisture activated. So a light misting will help get things foaming, and that is why you don't need lots of glue. It will only add weight and make a mess.The tape just holds the skins in place until you get it all in the bag with out moving.
In the bag and under pressure. We are only using the bag as a giant clamp, a job it does very simply and well.
Natural Lanolin from Lanotec in Brisbane. I use the General Purpose grade that they make and have found it best for what I want. My logo is added to the board as a rubber stamp I got made on line and a solvent based ink called Stazon. It dries onto the surface instantly and won't bleed.
You could get a hot branding iron made but they are very expensive and if you have lots of detail in your logo it will just burn out. Plus it is a one shot process,.
These and the bandsaw are my range of tools I need to build this board.
A small orbital sander with a range of sandpaper
A small sanding block.
80 and 120 grit Emery cloth for sanding the rails is a great help.
You will need a good mask as this fine dust will get into everything.
I have a small hand plan and a really small hand plane , both really sharp.
Get yourself a Veritas honing guide and water stones for sharpening your tools.
I have a spoke shave for tight curves , concaves.
A Japanese pull saw, very handy.
I use Fix it Mate polyurethane glue which I find great for what I do. A bottle goes a long way.
You will need some cheap plastic spreaders. These ones are great the glue won't stick to it.
A small spray bottle is handy to mist water onto you timber before clamping as the glue is moisture activated.
Good quality masking tape is important as it has the right amount of stickiness and strength in the paper backing. Experiment, you will be amazed at the hold you can get with it and all the angles to do the job right. Lesser quality will let go or snap when the glue foams and expands , just when you have left the workshop. You don't need the surprises for the cost of a few dollars.
The odd spring clamp is handy.
I also have a band saw which is very useful. I get all my Paulownia supplied dressed , thicknessed and glued up in sheets as I need. It all means you don't need to invest in expensive machines that will get little use.
I also have the vacuum pump and a PVC bag for it. You could share the cost with a mate.
The best advise I can give you is to buy good quality tools and keep them sharp and it will make all this so much easier. Keep it simple and don't over think and over engineer it.
All the steps in a stack
If you have any questions email me : firstname.lastname@example.org
I hope this helps a few of you get into building a wooden baord as there are a lot of surfers out there but there are not many that surf on a board they built themselves. And if you love your surfing this is a very special connection you will never forget.